Martinique

Biblioteka Schoelcher, Fort-de-France



















Cmentarz w Fort-de-France















Targ w Fort-de-France




















Saint-Pierre



















Morne-Rouge z Montagne Pelée w tle















Habitation Clement, Le François















Bellefontaine

Music and Cultures in Gosier

Fête du Gosier was the highlight of the last week of August. With the theme «la diversité notre richesse, la solidarité notre force,» the Fête celebrated the minorities present in the region, and particularly the importance of peaceful and friendly cohabitation. Numerous events of the week included a special service at the local Church of St Louis, vin d'honneur (a toast) at the Town Hall, a concert of spiritual music by Lina Racon, a Lewoz, and many other attractions...

As a choir member, together with about 30 other choristes, I sang celebratory chants in French as well as in Creole during the service. The rehearsals began in mid-July. We'd meet every Friday night to first learn and then revise the songs. Mme Cessy was a wonderful choir teacher. I loved her enthusiasm and the passion for choir singing. I thought it was particularly funny when during the rehearsals, annoyed with our poor performance (:-), she would abruptly switch to Creole yelling that she's going to have us all soak in the rain and that she cannot stand such a disorganized group. Nevertheless, the performance was great afterall. It was easy to see that the audience (the locals and the officials) present during the service was very touched. I had great time singing too...
I love how here, during major celebrations, the church becomes a local arts scene. Not only did the choir clap and dance when singing "Sen sen se ou Sen o!" ("Saint Saint Vous etes Saint oh!"), but we also shared the joy with the entire church community. We had a small band too - a pianist (Mme Cessy's husband), a guitarist, and a drummer Gwo Ka. Shame on all those who resisted swinging during the celebration!
I was truly touched when another choir member lent me one of her beautiful madras dresses. At first slightly afraid that wearing the dress will provoke some nasty comments (like "Do you think that wearing madras will make you a community member?"), I quickly realized that the local people truly appreciate my festive image. And indeed, when dancing the zouk later in the afternoon, I did feel I was a member of the community in Gosier!
The concert of Lina Racon, a recognized spiritual Creole singer, began without surprises. A traditional choir, gospel rhythms, spiritual atmosphere...

Everything changed however, when a group of talented dancers started their show in front of the Altar. Ensuite, Lina's dance performance! Sitting in the first row I was truly surprized but also enchanted with the show...
Yet a true show was yet to follow. Approximately at midnight, at the nearby parking lot of Belle Plaine, a magical Lewoz took place. Lewoz is a traditional Gwo Ka performance, where a group of drummers, dancers, and singers gather for a mysterious celebration. Dancers appear from the crowd, and disappear after their demo; the musicians like in a trance continue drumming inviting more and more performers to come and join. The audience gathers around the enchanted group. Some listeners clap and dance rhythmically; tourists take photos; elderly people bring small chairs and without a word or a gesture observe the show.

I returned to Belle Plaine the following day. The parking lot lost all of its mysterious charm. Yet the drumming, still pulsating in my head, did not cease.

The Fête culminated with representatives of different minorities present in Gosier signing a pact on intra-cultural solidarity. After a panel discussion during which everyone was welcome to express both positive and negative comments on minority co-habitation in the region, Jean-Pierre Dupont, mayor of Gosier, invited representatives of different nations and cultures to sign the pact to reinforce the community spirit. A simple yet a praiseworthy act, the pact has later been referred to on numerous occasions.

Indeed, to me Gosier seems an open and welcoming community, with various international influences. A new Western trend or the multicultural roots of West Indies?