Kreol Seselwa

Here is my "laklas kreol" in Victoria - Mont Fleuri. I was the only foreigner learning Creole. In fact, the other students were predominantly elderly women attending literacy classes. They already spoke Creole fluently, but they wanted to learn to write. Some of them chose to learn English. The teacher, Marie-Michelle, worked simultaneously with me - who worked specifically on the particularities of the Creole language, and with the other students - focusing on improving writing skills.

Kreol Seselwa (or simply Seselwa) is a French-based Creole language, which - like other Creole languages, emerged during the colonialism. Although Creole, English, and French, all have the status of official languages of the Seychelles, Creole is most widely spoken. It is the language of every-day communication; one can hear it in the streets, in the commerce, on TV, and even on the plane (Air Seychelles).

Although there are structural and lexical similarities between the Guadeloupean and the Seychellois Creole, a Guadeloupean and a Seychellois could not communicate easily. The languages are quite different, and what is more - the pronunciation varies. From what I have observed, the Gwada Creole is more pronounced (regarding the mouth opening), whereas Seselwa pronunciation resembles an Asian language (the mouth only slightly open). Also the pitch is different - the Gwada Creole being a low-pitch language, and the Seychellois - a high-pitch. These are some of my modest comparative observations.

Below - several Seselwa examples@:
Mon en etidyan ki anvi apran Kreol. - I am a student willing to learn Creole.
Mon apel Magda. - My name is Magda.
Mon annan 24 an. - I am 24 years old.
Mon reste Lanmizer. - I live in La Misère.
Mon anvi al anvil. - I would like to go to town.
Mon pou al anvil. - I will go to town.
Ki ler i ete? - What time is it?
Mon ti anvi aste en rob. - I wanted to buy a dress.
I annan en kantite dimoun. - There are a lot of people.
And my favorite:
Sa tonton pe travay tro bokou. - His uncle is working too much.

David André and the Choral & Music Society of Seychelles

David André is a recognized Seychellois musician, guitar teacher, founder of the music conservatory in Victoria, author of the Seychellois anthem, and the director of the Choral & Music Society of Seychelles.
I first heard of David in Paris, when Mme Stevens lent me one of his CDs. Educated in the Seychelles, France, and Canada, David writes songs which are to unite people. His music represents various styles and influences, but above all depicts the Seychellois spirit.
While in France and in the US I often listened to David's songs in Creole. I quickly realized that the tunes are easy to retain. By January 2008 I could already sing several of them with the guitar. "Dir mwan en parol" is my favorite:-)
I managed to contact David way before arriving in the Seychelles. I told him that I like his songs and that I had learned to play them and sing.
When we finally met in October, he was intrigued why I was so much interested in his music. I told him about the Watson and played my versions of his songs for him. Fortunately, he did not seem particularly offended... A great relief. Actually, from word to word, I learned about his Choral Society, and was invited to join the rehearsals...















At first I only listened to one or two concerts - like this one, a holy mass in Baie St Lazare, organized for the Festival Kreol.

















The performance in the Cathedral in Victoria, on Ste Cécile's, marked my first active participation in the Society.
Here you can see me - in the 4th row, unfortunately still missing the peach scarf (:-), yet truly
happy to be part of the group.

















Rehearsing for the concert organized to commemorate the Human Rights Day...


















...and on the day of the concert, Dec. 7 2008, only a few days before my ultimate departure from the Seychelles.
With other female members of the Society.
In the repertoire - a selection from David's "Missa Insularum," as well as the "Ode to Joy."

Ferdinand Vidot, Herbalist

This was quite a memorable encounter. A friend asked me one day: "Have you ever met an herbalist?" "I think you'd enjoy it," he added. Indeed, I don't think I had ever chatted with an herb specialist... OK, I had heard elderly people say "the mint leaves are good for stomach ache," etc.; but here - it's a different thing.
The Seychellois praise the power of nature. When I felt I was getting sick, my host-mom immediately advised me to drink an herbal tea and take some natural medicine. I often hear people say that such-and-such plant is good for allergies, and another - for fever. I have even seen plants that are apparently used as contraceptives and - if too late - to abort!
What is more, some Seychellois herbalists - grigris - have supernatural powers. They can cast a spell and predict future. I was truly surprized to see that nowadays people still believe in this black magic and are quite superstitious!
On the day of the visit I happened... to be sick. So I had an opportunity to test Mr. Vidot's knowledge. Unfortunately I could not do it on the spot, as he gave me some herbs to prepare and drink at home (they worked afterall!). I had however the chance to learn about myself and about my future! Based on my birth date and some magical data I got to know what follows:
- green is my color
- Friday is my day (of course!)
- I have a "good" birth date
- I am unsatisfied
- (hence:-) I will have 6 children

Hmmm, hmmm, to reflect upon at a later time...
And a prayer against floods (!!!:-) to be said every day. I got it from Mr. Vidot - to hang up on my wall.
With Ferdinand Vidot - to the right.

Festival Kreol 2008

Every year the last week of October is the period of particular Seychellois celebrations - Festival Kreol. This year the Seychellois celebrated for the 23rd time. Since the 1980s the Festival has been the opportunity to promote local talents and the Seychellois culture.
Recently, because of the economic problems, the budget has been cut down to the most necessary minimum. Thus, this year's Festival was not the most representative one. According to my host family, it's a pity I could not see the serenade - a dancing parade around Victoria. Nevertheless, thanks to the people I met, I enjoyed the Festival to the greatest extent!

Bal Asosye culminated the week of celebrations. It is an all-night-long traditional party, with a lot of rhum, local music (sega, contre-danse, etc.), and hot soup served at midnight!

Below a photo taken at sunrise. The Sant Kominoter deserted just after the fête.

During Pipili Kreol middle and high school students dance traditional dances in the streets of Victoria. At the end tout le monde joins the celebration.

Quite accidentally I got the ticket to see a piece of teat on the adventures of the legendary Seychellois hero, Soungoula. All in Creole, and with references to the insular reality. Fortunately, I was accompanied by several local friends, who translated for me on the spot:-)

Generally, all Soungoula-related stories (there are many) talk about his wit and how people are trying to win over the creature. This one was written by Mme. Marie-Thérèse Choppy, the mother of the Director of the Creole Institute in Au Cap, Penda Choppy.

The 3-day seminar on the African roots of Creolity, held at the Creole Insitute (Lenstiti Kreol), was one of the highlights of this year's Festival. I had the opportunity to meet many Seychellois, Mauritian, and Amercian scholars; I chatted a bit more with Mme Penda Choppy; I met a UNESCO delegate for East Africa; and I participated in many lectures. I particularly liked the presentation on the Seychellois heritage, as well as the comparative lectures on the societies of the Indian Ocean.

The Festival "Cine Sesel" began a few days before the official opening of the Festival Kreol. Among the nominees - Seychellois, Mauritian, Reunionais, and West Indian productions. In the picture below - famous Kassav' singer (whom I had already met in Gwada) - Jocelyne Béroard, who was a member of the Festival jury, and with whom I had the chance to chat at the opening of the event.

The Seselwa

The population of the Seychelles is very diverse. Originally people came predominantly from 3 continents: Europe, Africa, and Asia (especially India and China). The since ongoing creolization has resulted in an interesting mélange of races that I have never seen before...

Tu seras jamais dans la misère

A jednak się stało - mimo horoskopowej przepowiedni, wyczytanej jeszcze na Gwadelupie - ostatecznie wylądowałam "w biedzie", czy raczej - jak można odczytać poniżej - w "La Misère". Przez dwa miesiące mieszkałam w tej właśnie jakże pochlebnie nazwanej miejscowości! Dodam może tylko, że to właśnie La Misère, a nie stolica Victoria, jest domem wszelkich osobistości - ministrów, doradców, etc... Mnie żyło się tam raczej skromnie, ale przez to i bardzo spokojnie. Uczta dla ducha!

Despite what I read in one of the Guadeloupian horoscopes (that I'd never be in misery), in the Seychelles I came to live exactly in "misery" or rather in "La Misère." Two months in misery, quite an achievement! Yet, it's important to point out that this "misery," and not the capital Victoria, is the neighborhood of all the big fish in the country. Myself, rather than any luxury, I found in La Misère the peace and quiet which I appreciate greatly!

The wooden house - very cozy! And then two dogs, some chicks, and a goat in the garden. Quite an idyllic atmosphere...

In the garden I also took some botany lessons. For example, for the first time in my life I saw a cocoa fruit (yak - bitter seeds!).

Some more garden treasures: bananas, papayas, "fruit à pain"...

My Seselwa host-family, who on the day of my arrival took me on a very nice walk in Beauvallon at the sunset...

La Misère and its particular neighborhood.

Seychelles

On October 9 I arrived in the Seychelles, a country with the population of only 85,000 - one of these pearls on our globe where the Western civilisation has not yet had a full access. No McDonald's, beautiful unpolluted beaches, limited internet access... In fact, I am typing these words with a certain delay... Indeed, internet was quite an issue. But also the fact that the personal communication is so much more important in the Seychelles than the quick "shoot me an email". I loved this direct contact so much, that somewhat unconsiously I renounced the digital communication for quite some time@.

Nonetheless, the time has come to upload those thousands of picks that I took over the past 3 months and to share with with my beloved readers (;-) some reflections on this beautiful and quite mysterious country - hidden in the Indian Ocean, to the East from Madagascar.

Seychelles are officially an African country, although culturally they form an insular connection between Africa, Asia, and Europe - the three continents that had a direct impact on the constitution of this young country. The Republic of the Seychelles was proclaimed in 1976, after 200 years of French and British colonialism. After the period of political turmoil - a debate between Seychelles People's United Party and Seychelles Democratic Party - in 1977 the country became a one-party state with SPUP, or rather Seychelles People's Progressive Front in power. The second political formation, Democratic Party, came into existence only in 1992, and in 1993 the first multiparty elections were held.

Earlier governed directly by the British Empire, the Seychelles are still culturally close to the UK. After the local Creole - Seselwa, English is the second predominant language of communication, followed by French (Creole, English, and French are all official languages of the country - quite a phenomenon!). In the afternoon one can see the Seychelois enjoy their 5 o'clock vanilla tea (local plantations - delicious tea!). Academic exchange with the UK is also relatively vibrant.

Geographically speaking, Seychelles are an archipelago of 115 islands of the granitic type. The biggest is the island of Mahé, where the capital (Victoria) is located. Praslin and La Digue are other important islands of the archipelago. Tourism and fishing (tuna) are at the basis of the Seychellois economy.