Gwo Ka

One of the particularities of Guadeloupe, gwo ka refers to a group of traditional drums as well as the music played with them. As soon as I arrived on the island, people would ask me whether I have already seen a traditional lewoz - a community performance usually organized on Friday evenings. Whenever there is a festival or a fête, even from afar one can hear the distinct deep drumming. Gwo ka music can also be played to accompany oral folk tales...

Although it seems completely spontaneous at first, gwo ka is a structured performance where the musician playing on the biggest drum, the boula, provides the central rhythm and the markeur interplays with it. There are seven rhythms of gwo ka. Each transmits a different message and has its distinct characteristics. The Gwadeloupeans like to contemplate upon the variety of meanings that can be conveyed by the gwo ka music.


What particularly fascinates me in the gwo ka performance is its spontaneity and the personal touch. Rather than a show in front of the audience, gwo ka is like a dialogue with the listeners. It can be communicated through music only, but is often accompanied by guttural and rough singing. As soon as the school year begins in September I want to take some gwo ka singing lessons. I will share the experience with you later on...

Dance in Guadeloupe is just as natural as walking in Poland. I have not yet been to a soirée where once the traditional zouk is played, people would not get up and start dancing. I particularly remember when - just arrived in Guadeloupe - I participated in the celebrations of the July 14 in Pointe-à-Pitre. A crowd of predominantly elderly ladies gathered in the room where instrumentalists and singers performed both modern and traditional music. The second they began playing a more rhythmic hit, the ladies moved the chairs aside and started balancing their hips rhythmically:-) One of the youngest in the audience, I could not help but join them in this melodic euphoria!

As zouk does, gwo ka also provokes dancing. Here however, a certain skill and preparation are required. The girl in the picture below may be 4-5 years old. I presume that she has been exposed to the distinct gwo ka drumming since she could walk. Believe me - her dancing was simply amazing. She was perfectly at ease while maintaining eye-contact with the markeur (gwo ka dancing is a form of non-verbal communication). You could see the passion in her eyes when she skillfully passed from one gwo ka figure to another. Without any shyness she looked at the audience as if she were saying: "dancing gwo ka is as natural as breathing."

Well, I have yet to learn how to breathe in Guadeloupe...